Where to find Seattle's best biscuits and gravy - plus the recipes
EATING THE BISCUITS AND GRAVY at Seattle's Little Jaye may cause superlatives. "It's magnificent," one patron said, with a look of dawning awe, while engulfing a plate of them recently. The words "a triumph" were uttered. "Bonkers," this eater said.
This little bakery and cafe, found in an unprepossessing office park in a far-flung part of South Park, gained fame after opening in 2023 for its work at the other end of the taste spectrum: versions of Rice Krispie treats that incorporate Fruity Pebbles, Cinnamon Toast Crunch and more. Depending on what you were allowed to eat as a kid, these give nostalgia layered on nostalgia, and as sweet-tooth-pleasers, they still sell out fast every day. The rendition featuring crushed Ruffles potato chips, also popular, offers more of a salt-and-sugar complexity.
But in the realm of the purely, perfectly savory, truly great biscuits and gravy is hard to find around here, and Little Jaye takes this simple favorite into the realm of the sublime.
The gravy comes with a healthy dose of black pepper already included, adding a spark to its subtle overall umami, not too salty yet absolutely not undersalted. The gravy is ideally creamy - silky, really - without any heaviness. The flavor of the sausage comes through, pork and herbs, but does not dominate; same with some added fennel.
A biscuit seems a most basic thing, but it is also easy to bungle tragically. Little Jaye doesn't color outside of any lines here, keeping the ingredients to the fundamentals. To encounter one of the biscuits on its own is to smell a distinct butteriness, experience an external golden-browned crunch and then the kind of light, tender fluffiness inside that every biscuit on this earth deserves. The flavor showcases the butter and the faint tang of buttermilk, and even the grains that gave their all for the flour, absorbing the goodness of sun and water, amber waves in a field. This is biscuiting of the finest order.
So Little Jaye puts one of these awesome biscuits under a blanket of its heavenly gravy. The sunny-side up egg on top doesn't come off as an afterthought - the bird is friend to the rest of the farm, and the runny yolk gives some bites a velvety earthiness. And there you are: Life is, for this moment, as good as it can be.
Little Jaye is the little sister to Lady Jaye, a West Seattle burger spot and boutique butcher shop. When chef Charlie Garrison started bakery pop-ups there, they were such a hit that they demanded their own spinoff, and Little Jaye was born.
While Garrison has since departed the businesses, his biscuit recipe lives gloriously on. He also formulated the gravy with chef Tyler Palagi, who runs both Jayes today, along with Evan Carter and Sara Rosales. And soon Little Jaye will have two spinoffs of its own right next door - another specialty butcher plus a bar named Handlebar, coming by summertime.
If you go to Little Jaye, you will absolutely notice the giant version of "American Gothic" featuring Anthony Bourdain and Dolly Parton as a happier version of the classic couple with the pitchfork and the farmhouse, created for the place by the local artist known as @nakmatter. Maybe the biscuits and gravy here somehow taste like the painting, like Bourdain narrating how great food can be in unexpected places while Parton gives you a hug and starts singing, all against the backdrop of a less complicated America.
The Little Jayers were kind enough to share both their recipes so that we might experience this biscuit-and-gravy paradise at home, too. To them and to Garrison: many thanks.
Little Jaye Buttermilk Biscuits
This recipe will yield eight big biscuits. They freeze super-well; to thaw/reheat, wrap loosely in foil and bake at 300 degrees for about 15-20 minutes.
575 grams (about 4¾ cups) all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon baking powder
1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon kosher salt
1½ teaspoons baking soda
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, chilled
2 cups buttermilk, chilled
1. Combine the dry ingredients in a large bowl and mix well.
2. Dice butter into ½-inch cubes.
3. In a food processor, combine the butter and a cup of the flour mixture. Pulse until the butter is the size of peas, add to the rest of the flour mixture and mix in evenly.
4. Add the buttermilk and mix with a heavy spatula until well incorporated; it will still be shaggy, with visible pieces of butter. Dust a clean surface with flour and dump the dough out. Knead the dough until the mixture begins to be firm to the touch, about 2-4 minutes (leave some floury scraps behind rather than overknead).
5. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.
6. Roll the dough out evenly using a rolling pin until the dough is about 1¼-inch thick. Using a bench knife or large sharp knife, cut the dough into 3-inch squares.
7. Place biscuits on a sheet tray lined with parchment paper, spacing them 2 inches apart. Bake for six minutes, then rotate the pan front to back and bake for about another 6 minutes - you're looking for golden brown or internal temperature of 195 degrees.
Little Jaye Black-Pepper Sausage Gravy
For the sausage, Little Jaye recommends Hill's brand from Oregon.
1 pound bulk (ground) breakfast sausage
About a tablespoon of canola or other neutral oil
½ medium white onion, diced small
1¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
1 teaspoon ground fennel seed
½ teaspoon kosher salt (plus more to taste)
½ cup + 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
3¼ cups whole milk
½ teaspoon Tabasco (or your favorite hot sauce)
1. In a large heavy-bottomed pan over medium-high heat, crumble the sausage, breaking it up to desired chunkiness (we like ours pretty crumbled) and add the oil. Brown the sausage, then add the diced onion and cook until the onion is tender.
2. Add the spices, salt and flour and incorporate well, stirring with a wooden spoon. Be careful to keep stirring and not create a carpet on the bottom of the pan.
3. Turn the heat to medium-low. Add the milk and stir, scraping up any bits from the bottom of the pan.
4. Bring gravy to a simmer slowly, stirring often. Once the gravy has thickened, add Tabasco and more salt to taste.
5. Turn the gravy down to very low and let cook for a few more minutes, stirring often.
6. If your gravy is a little thick for your liking, you can always thin it out with a little hot water or milk.
(Adapted from Little Jaye's recipes)
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