Living

Slicing for success

Ninety-one percent of school food-service directors believe that children will more readily consume apples, pears, avocados and other fruits and vegetables if they are sliced -- as long as they don't turn brown and unappetizing. Who wants to eat a shriveled, brown, bite-size piece of apple, even if it does fit nicely in the mouth?
Ninety-one percent of school food-service directors believe that children will more readily consume apples, pears, avocados and other fruits and vegetables if they are sliced -- as long as they don't turn brown and unappetizing. Who wants to eat a shriveled, brown, bite-size piece of apple, even if it does fit nicely in the mouth? Knight-Ridder/Tribune

Three years ago, a group of researchers at Cornell University’s Food and Brand Lab had a hunch. They knew that many of apples being served to kids as part of the National School Lunch Program were ending up in the trash, virtually untouched. But unlike others, they wondered if the reason was more complicated than simply that the kids didn’t want the fruit.

Specifically, they thought the fact that the apples were being served whole, rather than sliced, was doing the fruits no favor. And they were on to something.

Size of success

A pilot study conducted at eight schools found that fruit consumption jumped by more than 60 percent when apples were served sliced. And a follow-up study, conducted at six other schools, not only confirmed the finding, but further strengthened it: Both overall apple consumption and the percentage of students who ate more than half of the apple that was served to them were more than 70 percent higher at schools that served sliced apples.

“It sounds simplistic, but even the simplest forms of inconvenience affect consumption,” said David Just, a professor of behavioral economics at Cornell who studies consumer food choices, and one of the study’s author. “Sliced apples just make a lot more sense for kids.”

The hardest part is getting kids to start eating fruit, to take the first bite, and that’s precisely what slicing an apple makes more appealing. A child holding a whole apple has to break the skin, eat around the core, and deal with the hassle of holding a large fruit. That barrier might seem silly or superficial, but Just says it’s significant when you’re missing teeth or have braces, as so many kids do.

“It’s one of those circumstances where what seems like a really small inconvenience actually makes a huge difference,” he said.

That realization, however new it might have been for the cafeterias where students were suddenly eating more fruit, is something that hasn’t been lost on the apple industry. Amid decades of stagnant growth, apple distributors have started pushing packaged, pre-sliced apples out into the market. And it has proven to be a pretty successful strategy.

Americans ate just over 500 million fresh sliced apples in 2014, more than three times as many as they did 10 years before. The rise has been fairly consistent.

But it has also been fairly significant. The jump in fresh sliced apple consumption just so happens to coincide with an uptick in overall apple consumption, which has grown by 13 percent since 2010.

In 2013, Americans ate just under 17.5 pounds per capita, the most in almost a decade.

Old hand for parents

There is little revolutionary about serving cut-up apples. Parents, after all, have been slicing fruits and giving them to their children for forever. But there is a subtle genius in serving them commercially, packaged and ready-to-eat.

“The apple industry is a very mature industry,” said Mark Seetin, who is the director of regulatory and industry affairs for the U.S. Apple Association, a non-profit that represents thousands of growers around the country. “The only way to grow is through innovation, but innovation hasn’t been easy.”

“This (pre-sliced apples) has offered a new pathway the industry is obviously really excited about it,” he added. “Right now, pre-sliced apples make up about one out of every 20 apples sold in the country.”

Why sliced apples? And why now? The rise of sliced apples owes a great deal to a certain fast food behemoth, which began selling them a little over a decade ago.

Worked for McDonald’s

In 2004, before any other fast food company was offering apple slices, McDonald’s was adding them to its menu. At the time, the company was looking to introduce healthier options that would be attractive to children, and pre-sliced apples seemed like a good place to start.

“Sliced apples are often easier for children, especially young children, to eat,” said Christina Tyler, a company spokesperson. “We simply wanted to make enjoying fruit easier and more fun for our youngest customers.”

For years, the apples were offered as an optional side. But in 2012, the company began automatically serving them as part of Happy Meals. And the impact has been enormous.

While McDonald’s wouldn’t disclose how many apples it sold in the early years, it confirmed that it has served more than 2 billion packages since they were first offered. In 2015 alone, the company served almost 250 million packages of sliced apples, which amounts to just over 60 million apples, or more than 10 percent of all fresh sliced apples sold in the United States.

“Apples are one of the most popular side options we serve,” Tyler said.

In some respects, this is a testament to the power of McDonald’s, which sells so much food it has the ability to significantly alter the fate of certain foodstuff. Eggs, for instance, have benefited greatly from the company’s breakfast menu. McDonald’s uses more than two billion eggs per year in the United States alone, or almost 5 percent of all eggs produced in the country

“When a company as big as McDonald’s helps promote something, it not only boosts sales, but also really raises public awareness,” said Seetin, the industry representative.

But while McDonald’s might have helped popularize the packaged apples, schools are now contributing to their sustained rise, according to Seetin. School lunches, he says, have also been “a very significant contributor to the growth.”

The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA), which oversees the NSLP, couldn’t say how many schools are serving sliced apples instead of whole ones. That decision is made by local school food authorities, not the federal government. The USDA does, however, make recommendations, among which is that fruit be served in “age-appropriate pieces.”

This story was originally published May 27, 2016 at 6:03 AM with the headline "Slicing for success."

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