Tasting results: Pinot Gris
Perhaps the perfect white wine for a Pacific Northwest summer is Pinot Gris.
The grape often associated with France and Italy grows extremely well throughout the Northwest, and it pairs perfectly with our region’s cuisine, particularly seafood.
“When it comes to pairing Pinot Gris, my favorite is grilled salmon,” said Adam Campbell, who makes the best Pinot Gris in the Pacific Northwest.Campbell, second-generation winemaker for Elk Cove Vineyards in Oregon’s Yamhill-Carlton American Viticultural Area, has been crafting great Pinot Gris for years, and it consistently earns top ratings regardless of vintage. Campbell said his secret is treating Pinot Gris with importance.
“It’s not just our default white variety,” he said. “It’s made intentionally. We love Pinot Gris, and it just happens to be the best white wine for our climate.”
Campbell produces all of his Pinot Gris from about 100 acres of estate grapes. Even though Pinot Gris is Oregon’s No. 1 white grape, he is concerned about keeping a steady supply available. In fact, he has planted about 40 additional acres in the past couple of years so he can bump up his production a bit. Even with 17,000 cases each year, Campbell runs out of Pinot Gris by November or December, leaving some of his best restaurant accounts high and dry during their busiest time of the year.
Pinot Gris has been Oregon’s favorite white wine since it overtook Chardonnay in 2000. Today, Oregon wineries crush three times as much Pinot Gris as Chardonnay. In Washington, the crisp white wine has grown to the state’s No. 3 grape, surpassing Sauvignon Blanc and Gewürztraminer years ago but still light years behind Chardonnay and Riesling.
The story of Oregon and Washington Pinot Gris is a tale of two styles of farming. In the cool Willamette Valley, grape growers are happy to get 3 tons of Pinot Gris per acre planted. Meanwhile, in the warm, arid conditions of Washington’s Columbia Valley, it’s not unusual to see 6 tons per acre.
This shows up in the price of the grapes, too, with Oregon Pinot Gris costing upward of $1,500 per ton, while Washington winemakers are able to buy it for just $800. This is one reason Oregon Pinot Gris can cost $6 to $8 more per bottle.
None of this concerns Campbell.
“We have to focus on what we do best and not focus on competing with other areas,” he said. “Getting lower yields is kind of an advantage because we’re getting more interesting flavors” — something he refers to as “cool-climate freshness.”
Regardless of which side of the Columbia River your Pinot Gris originates, it will pair beautifully with seafood (think halibut or salmon), shellfish (oysters, scallops and clams), as well as white meats such as chicken or pork.
Northwest Pinot Gris can show off flavors that range from the crisp — pear and apple — to the ripe — pineapple, lychee and mango. The hallmark is its acidity: crisp, bracing and mouthwatering.
We conducted a blind tasting of 81 Pinot Gris from Oregon, Washington and Idaho, most of which were from the 2012 and 2013 vintages. Our judges for this judging were Heather Unwin, executive director of the Red Mountain AVA Alliance; Jessica Munnell, winemaker for Mercer Estates in Prosser, Wash.; Gregg McConnell, editor and publisher of Wine Press Northwest magazine; Ken Robertson, columnist for Wine Press Northwest; and Mike Rader, a longtime consumer and accomplished wine judge. The competition was conducted by Great Northwest Wine on behalf of Wine Press Northwest magazine.
Here are the results:
OUTSTANDING
Elk Cove Vineyards 2013 Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, $19: Second-generation winemaker Adam Campbell is the master of Pinot Gris, as he consistently earns top scores vintage after vintage. This is no exception, earning the top spot in our judging. It opens with aromas of apple, pear and a touch of pineapple, followed by hints of jasmine and mint tea. The palate is bursting with flavors of orchard fruit and minerality, all backed with crisp, mouthwatering acidity. A stunning wine. (17,000 cases, 13% alc.)
Best Buy!
Lost River Winery 2013 Pinot Gris, Columbia Valley, $15: This Winthrop, Wash., winery with a Seattle tasting room has jumped up on our radar in the past couple of years with one superb wine after another. Here is another great example. Winemaker John Morgan used grapes from the Horse Heaven Hills and Yakima Valley and came up with a wine with aromas of lavender, peach, white blossom and Meyer lemon. On the palate, it delivers flavors of fresh pear, apple and a hint of sweet herbs, all backed with terrific acidity. (750 cases, 13.2% alc.)
Best Buy!
Maryhill Winery 2013 Pinot Gris, Columbia Valley, $12: In a little over a decade, Maryhill has developed into one of Washington’s brightest stars. Winemaker Richard Batchelor captured bright, refreshing fruit in this young white wine. It opens with notes of Asian pear, apple and minerality, followed by flavors of lemon, honeysuckle and white peach. Said one judge: “This is a benchmark example of Pinot Gris.” (5,370 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Mt. Hood Winery 2013 Pinot Gris, Columbia Gorge, $19: Longtime Oregon winemaker Rich Cushman is crafting gorgeous wines for this Hood River winery. It offers aromas of green tea, jasmine, minerality and pear, followed by flavors of apple, lemon-lime, white peach and honeysuckle. It’s a rich, round wine with beautiful balance and lush fruit. (300 cases, 12.7% alc.)
Left Coast Cellars 2013 The Orchards Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, $18: This winery west of Salem, Ore., produced one of our favorite rosés last summer and has repeated the feat this year with Pinot Gris. Winemaker Joe Wright used estate grapes to craft a wine with aromas of minerality, crushed herbs and pears, followed by flavors of apple, Asian pear and pineapple. It’s all backed with bright, bursting acidity. (1,883 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Archery Summit 2012 Vireton Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, $24 One of Oregon’s most renowned Pinot Noir producers also crafts a delicious Pinot Gris. This winery in the Dundee Hills has put together a luscious white with aromas of lime zest, sweet herbs and minerality, followed by flavors of lemon-lime and white peach. It’s all backed with crisp acidity that gives this an impressive finish. (2,480 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Best Buy!
Cardwell Hill Cellars 2013 Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, $15: Owners Dan and Nancy Chapel produce small amounts of wine at their boutique operation northwest of Corvallis, Ore., and this superb Pinot Gris is one of their finest white wines to date. It reveals gorgeous aromas of tropical fruit, apple and minerality, followed by flavors of white peach and a squeeze of fresh lime. It’s all backed with bright acidity that leads to a long and elegant finish. (445 cases, 13% alc.)
Omero Cellars 2013 Pinot Gris, Ribbon Ridge, $23: Sarah Cabot crafts wine in the Pacific Northwest’s smallest American Viticultural Area, a small slice of land in the northern Willamette Valley called Ribbon Ridge that is sandwiched between the Chehalem Mountains and Yamhill-Carlton. This alluring white opens with aromas of Golden Delicious apple, crushed herb and lavender, followed by austere, even tingly flavors of mint, jasmine and minerality. (425 cases, 12% alc.)
Chehalem Wines 2012 Ridgecrest Vineyards Estate Pinot Gris, Ribbon Ridge, $29: The father-daughter team of Harry and Wynne Peterson-Nedry lead one of Oregon’s best wineries, using grapes from Ribbon Ridge, Chehalem Mountains and the Dundee Hills. This is a vibrant white wine with aromas of rosemary, green apple and Asian pear, followed by vibrant flavors of pear, lemon-lime and apple. It’s a bright, balanced wine with racy acidity and beautiful elegance in the finish. (172 cases, 15.2% alc.)
Best Buy!
Jones of Washington 2013 Pinot Gris, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley, $13: Leave it to young winemaker Victor Palencia to rise to the top of nearly every blind tasting we conduct. He is well known for his crisp white wines from Washington’s youngest AVA, and this luscious Pinot Gris delivers. It reveals gorgeous aromas of pear, apple, minerality and lavender, followed by refreshing flavors of rosewater, pear and cantaloupe. It is a beautifully crafted wine. (1,901 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Best Buy!
Latah Creek Wine Cellars 2013 Pinot Gris, Yakima Valley, $11: Longtime Spokane winemaker Mike Conway now works with daughter Natalie Conway-Barnes on Latah Creek’s wines, and this is one of their finest collaborations so far. It opens with aromas of crisp apple, Asian pear and minerality, followed by flavors of white peach, lychee and Granny Smith apple. A bit of sweetness balances the bright acidity for a wine with a long, pleasant finish. (3,365 cases, 12% alc.)
Territorial Vineyards 2013 Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, $16: Based in Eugene, Ore., Territorial is a longtime winery that has produced suave Pinot Noirs for years. This Pinot Gris is a lush, rich white wine with aromas of roses, apple and tropical fruit, followed by delicious flavors of white peach, orange and honeysuckle. It is not too austere and beautifully made. (350 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Chehalem Wines 2013 Three Vineyard Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, $22: Winemaker Wynne Peterson-Nedry used grapes from three estate vineyards: Ridgecrest, Corral Creek and Stoller. It’s a gorgeous white with aromas of rosewater, white flower petals and honeycrisp apple. Flavors of lime and stone fruit are wonderfully balanced with crisp, bright acidity, giving way to a long, memorable finish. (1,900 cases, 11.9% alc.)
Best Buy!
Vino La Monarcha 2013 Pinot Grigio, Columbia Valley, $15: Victor Palencia, winemaker for Jones of Washington, launched his own brand last fall with a Walla Walla tasting room. This is one of his new wines, and it is superb. It opens with aromas of rosewater, lychee and tropical fruit. On the palate, it is a complex wine with classic flavors of pear and apple, along with plush tropical notes, all backed with bright acidity. (102 cases, 12.3% alc.)
Best Buy!
Duck Pond Cellars 2013 Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, $12: This longtime Dundee Hills winery (which also owns Desert Wind Winery in the Yakima Valley) excels at crafting delicious and fairly priced wines. This Pinot Gris is one of its best efforts, thanks to aromas of Asian pear, white peach and minerality, followed by flavors of pear, Golden Delicious apple and an alluring dusty quality, all backed with just a kiss of sweetness. (9,200 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Best Buy!
Bateaux Cellars 2013 Pinot Gris, Yakima Valley, $15: This tiny producer near the southwest Washington town of Toledo (south of Chehalis) has put together a beautiful Pinot Gris using grapes from Airfield in the Yakima Valley north of Prosser. It opens with aromas of minerality, white flowers and pear, followed by rich, vibrant flavors of melon, ripe pear and sweet herbal notes, all backed with a bit of spritz. (80 cases, 12.5% alc.)
Coeur de Terre Vineyard 2013 Pinot Gris, McMinnville, $18: Winemaker Scott Neal used grapes from 30-year-old vines in the hilly McMinnville AVA on the western edge of the Willamette Valley. Aromas of green apple and sweet herbs give way to flavors of luscious pear, apple, grapefruit and pineapple. It’s a bright, fun wine. (500 cases, 12.8% alc.)
Tsillan Cellars 2012 Estate Pinot Grigio, Lake Chelan, $19: Based on the south shore of Lake Chelan in North Central Washington, Tsillan Cellars is one of the most beautiful wineries in the Pacific Northwest — and it is crafting delicious wines. Winemaker Shane Collins used estate grapes for this white wine with aromas of crushed herbs, pear and starfruit, followed by flavors of honeydew melon, ripe peach and Meyer lemon on the finish. It’s a complete wine with an incredible finish. (542 cases, 13.4% alc.)
EXCELLENT
Tsillan Cellars 2013 Estate Pinot Grigio, Lake Chelan, $19: Bob Jankelson built Tsillan Cellars with an Italian theme (and even has an Italian restaurant on site), so many of his wines also have Italian names, such as this Pinot Grigio. It is a beautiful wine with aromas of jasmine, minerality and lemon-lime, followed by bright, delicious flavors of white peach, lychee and lime, all backed with great acidity. (425 cases, 13.6% alc.)
Pete’s Mountain Vineyard 2013 Ceille’s Block Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, $25: Mike and Kristy Thayer own this vineyard just 20 minutes from Portland and produce Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir from the site. This is a gorgeous example of Oregon Pinot Gris, with harmonious aromas of mint, lavender, pear and peach, followed by elegant flavors of rosewater, rose petals and crisp fruit. (313 cases, 13.3% alc.)
Brooks Wines 2013 Estate Pinot Gris, Eola-Amity Hills, $20: Using estate grapes from the Eola-Amity Hills not far from the capital city of Salem, winemaker Chris Williams has crafted a bright, delicious Pinot Gris with aromas of fresh apple, starfruit, lychee and minerality, followed by elegant flavors of white peach, sweet lime and honeysuckle. (95 cases, 12.3% alc.)
Best Buy!
Kyra Wines 2013 Pinot Gris, Columbia Valley, $15: Columbia Basin winemaker Kyra Baerlocher used grapes from famed Evergreen Vineyard in the Ancient Lakes region of the Columbia Valley for this refreshing white wine. It offers aromas of white lavender, sweet herbs, crisp apple and lime, followed by flavors of white peach, starfruit and honeysuckle. It’s all backed with startling and distinctive mouthwatering acidity. It’s a fun, racy wine. (280 cases, 13% alc.)
Best Buy!
Alexandria Nicole Cellars 2013 A Squared Pinot Gris, Horse Heaven Hills, $14: Using estate grapes from Destiny Ridge Vineyard, owner/winemaker Jarrod Boyle crafted a delicious warm-climate Pinot Gris that reveals aromas of crushed herb, bright apple and even a hint of strawberry, followed by beautiful flavors of lemon, starfruit and crisp apple. (465 cases, 13.4% alc.)
Best Buy!
Mercer Estates Winery 2013 Pinot Gris, Yakima Valley, $15: Veteran Washington winemaker Jessica Munnell holds the reins at this Prosser, Wash., winery and has crafted a deliciously bright and crisp Pinot Gris using Yakima Valley fruit. It offers aromas of apple, pear and clove, followed by clean, bright flavors of fresh orchard fruit. It’s all backed with refreshing acidity. (5,433 cases, 13.3% alc.)
Best Buy!
Gecko Cellars 2013 Pinot Grigio, Yakima Valley, $15: Gecko Wine Co. in Woodinville, which also owns Michael Florentino Cellars, produces nicely priced wines under this label. This Pinot Gris offers aromas of jasmine, lavender and pear, followed by ripe, rich flavors of apple and peach, all backed with just a hint of sweetness. (112 cases, 14% alc.)
Spindrift Cellars 2013 Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, $16: This small producer west of Corvallis, Ore., has been around for about a decade, and owner/winemaker Matthew Compton has crafted a classic Oregon Pinot Gris with aromas of sweet herbs and crisp apple, followed by flavors of Asian pear, white peach and bright minerality, all backed with refreshing acidity. (670 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Winter’s Hill Estate 2012 Pinot Gris, Dundee Hills, $17: Winter’s Hill is in the heart of the northern Willamette Valley, and winemaker Delphine Gladhart has put together a luscious Pinot Gris using estate grapes. It offers aromas and flavors of ripe Golden Delicious apple, crisp Asian pear and a hint of sweet herbs. It’s all backed with bright, mouthwatering acidity. (760 cases, 14.5% alc.)
Best Buy!
Carlton Cellars 2013 Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, $14: Dave Grooters, owner and winemaker for this high-quality winery in downtown Carlton, Ore., created a Pinot Gris with aromas and flavors of lavender, mineral, pear and Honeycrisp apple. It’s a delicious wine to pair with everything from salmon to scallops. (520 cases, 13.1% alc.)
One Wines 2013 Destiny Ridge Vineyards One White Wine, Horse Heaven Hills, $25: One Wines, based in downtown Chelan, Wash., worked with Jarrod Boyle of Destiny Ridge Vineyard to produce this splendid Pinot Gris. It offers aromas and flavors of apple, lavender and Asian pear, all backed with bright, refreshing acidity. (181 cases, 13.4% alc.)
Raptor Ridge Winery 2013 Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, $20: Owner/winemaker Scott Shull blended grapes from four vineyards to craft this luscious Pinot Gris. It opens with aromas of green apple, green tea and minerality, followed by delicious flavors of apple, pear and starfruit. (1,900 cases, 12.5% alc.)
Seven of Hearts 2013 Pinot Gris, Oregon, $18: Byron Dooley runs this winery on Main Street in downtown Carlton — the wine capital of Oregon. It opens with aromas of dried herbs and Granny Smith apple, followed by flavors of crisp orchard fruit and sweet herbs. (349 cases, 13.7% alc.)
Best Buy!
Wild Haven 2012 Pinot Gris, Columbia Valley, $9: Wild Haven is a label for Precept Wine in Seattle. This is a delicious wine at a terrific price. It provides aromas and flavors of crisp stone fruit, lime, apple, Asian pear and minerality. It’s priced for everyday enjoyment with shellfish, pork or chicken. (500 cases, 13% alc.)
Ankeny Vineyard 2013 Estate Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, $22: Joe Olexa arrived at his vineyard near Salem in 1980 and began planting grapes within two years. Three decades later, he’s still going strong. This mouthwatering white offers aromas and flavors of white blossom, apple and green tea, all backed with bright, luscious acidity. (600 cases, 13% alc.)
Chateau Lorane 2012 Pinot Gris, Oregon, $20: Linde and Sharon Kester run this longtime Oregon winery south of Eugene, and they have crafted a luscious Pinot Gris that is loaded with aromas and flavors of fresh-cut apple, minerality, ripe tropical fruit and sweet herbs, all backed with ample acidity. (217 cases, 13.3% alc.)
Torii Mor Winery 2013 Pinot Gris, Oregon, $18: French winemaker Jacques Tardy has been crafting wine in Oregon for many years. This classic Pinot Gris uses grapes from the Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley and Rogue Valley. It reveals aromas and flavors of Honeycrisp apple, lavender, pear and lime. (440 cases, 13.2% alc.)
Wapato Point Cellars 2012 Pinot Grigio, Lake Chelan, $22: Based on the north shore of Lake Chelan, Wapato Point is in the town of Manson and also features The Winemaker’s Grill, a white-linen restaurant. This bright and luscious Pinot Gris from estate grapes exudes aromas and flavors of lime, lavender, peach and sweet herbs. (280 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Best Buy!
Willow Crest 2012 Pinot Gris, Yakima Valley, $12: This longtime Yakima Valley winery is owned by Precept Wine in Seattle and is enjoying a higher profile as a result. Willow Crest excels with white wines, and this Pinot Gris is no exception, thanks to aromas of minerality, apple and oyster shells, followed by crisp flavors of apple and Asian pear. (5,000 cases, 13% alc.)
Best Buy!
B. Lovely 2012 Pinot Grigio, Washington, $9: This label for Precept Wine in Seattle is cleverly packaged with honey bees as a theme. It’s an off-dry (3% residual sugar) Pinot Gris that is a pleasant sipper, with aromas and flavors of rosewater, lychee and fruit cocktail notes. It’s a terrific brunch wine to enjoy with a crab melt. (1,700 cases, 13% alc.)
Best Buy!
Firesteed Cellars 2012 Pinot Gris, Oregon, $13: Now more than 20 years old, Firesteed started out as a “virtual winery” that eventually found a home in the Willamette Valley when it purchased Flynn Vineyards not far from Salem. This is a gorgeous and complex Pinot Gris with aromas and flavors of lavender sorbet, rose petals, Asian pear and a hint of orange. (13,580 cases, 13.7% alc.)
Best Buy!
J. Albin Winery 2013 Lorelle The Benches Pinot Grigio, Horse Heaven Hills, $10: This winery in the northern Willamette Valley reached into Washington’s Horse Heaven Hills for the grapes to make this refreshing Pinot Gris. It offers aromas and flavors of white flowers, a hint of strawberry and bright lemon. (3,000 cases, 12.5% alc.)
St. Innocent Winery 2012 Vitae Springs Vineyard Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, $26: Mark Vlossak founded St. Innocent a quarter-century ago and continues to distinguish himself with a broad range of single-vineyard wines that put the spotlight on Oregon’s terroir. This provides aromas and flavors of tropical fruit and ripe apple, all backed with crisp acidity. (542 cases, 13.9% alc.)
Best Buy!
Waterbrook Winery 2013 Pinot Gris, Columbia Valley, $12: Waterbrook is one of Walla Walla’s original wineries, and it continues to be one of its largest. This is a delicious and focused Pinot Gris with aromas and flavors of apple and pear, backed with crisp, luscious, mouthwatering acidity. (805 cases, 12.8% alc.)
Benton-Lane Winery 2012 Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, $17: Based in the southern Willamette Valley just north of Eugene, this longtime Oregon winery is known for high quality. This tasty Pinot Gris is rich in aromas and flavors of crisp apple, pear, starfruit and a hint of lemon. (4,204 cases, 14% alc.)
Best Buy!
Silvan Ridge Winery 2012 Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, $15: Based near Eugene, this longtime Oregon winery crafts delicious and affordable wines — and this Pinot Gris is no exception. It provides aromas and flavors of fresh-cut apple, clove, pineapple and white peach, all backed with refreshing acidity. (1,500 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Spoiled Dog Winery 2013 Pinot Gris, Columbia Valley, $16: In fact, there appears to be two spoiled dogs at this Whidbey Island winery northwest of Seattle, and their humans, Jack and Karen Krug, run the winery. This tasty Pinot Gris shows off aromas and flavors of green tea, lime zest, pear and apple, all backed with bright, zesty acidity. (108 cases, 13.7% alc.)
Waitsburg Cellars 2012 The Aromatics Old Vine Pinot Gris, Columbia Valley, $17: Winemaker Ron Bunnell oversees this project that is a collaboration between Precept Wine in Seattle and Waitsburg, Wash., wine luminary Paul Gregutt. This offers aromas and flavors of lavender, dusty gravel, crushed herbs, luscious Golden Delicious and papaya. (210 cases, 13% alc.)
Westport Winery 2011 Airfield Estates Fleur de Lis Pinot Gris, Yakima Valley, $25: This Washington coast winery brings in grapes from Airfield, a vineyard north of the Yakima Valley town of Prosser. The wine reveals aromas and flavors of pear, mango, minerality, sweet herbs and green apple, all backed by bracing acidity. (77 cases, 11% alc.)
Best Buy!
Apolloni Vineyards 2012 Pinot Grigio, Willamette Valley, $15: Alfredo Apolloni is one of the few Oregon winemakers to use “Grigio” on a label (though he also makes a “Pinot Gris” too). This example hints at lychee and mango before diving into aromas and flavors of Granny Smith apple, fresh-cut hay and Asian pear. (197 cases, 13.7% alc.)
Best Buy!
Open Road Wine Co. 2012 Pinot Gris, Wahluke Slope, $14: Owner George Papanikolaou brought in grapes from Rosebud, one of the Wahluke Slope’s oldest vineyards. The result is a wine with aromas and flavors of white pepper, lime, minerality and crisp, bright apple. (80 cases, 12% alc.)
Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards 2013 Cana Bloc Estate Pinot Gris, Umpqua Valley, $21: Owner/winemaker Steve Reustle has made his reputation with such varieties as Tempranillo and Grüner-Veltliner, but he also crafts some of Oregon’s more mainstream varieties. This is a gorgeous example of Southern Oregon Pinot Gris, with aromas and flavors of dusty minerality, sweet herbs, Asian pear and a hint of tropical fruit. (205 cases, 13.9% alc.)
Seven of Hearts 2012 Pinot Gris, Oregon, $18: Owner/winemaker Byron Dooley used grapes from the Oregon side of the Columbia Valley as well as a vineyard in Yamhill-Carlton, not far from his winery in downtown Carlton. It shows off aromas and flavors of white flowers, Golden Delicious apple, ripe pear and minerality, all backed with rich, luscious acidity. (336 cases, 14.5% alc.)
Best Buy!
Wind Rose Cellars 2013 Pinot Grigio, Yakima Valley, $15: Based in the Olympic Peninsula town of Sequim, this winery operates one of the hot spots in downtown Sequim. And the patrons love sipping Pinot Gris while enjoying live jazz. This tasty example hints at butter, crushed herb and lemon zest on the nose, giving way to flavors of Honeycrisp apple and ripe pear. It’s all backed with acidity that carries the wine to a memorable finish. (175 cases, 13.4% alc.)
Gard Vintners 2011 Lawrence Vineyard Grand Klasse Pinot Gris, Columbia Valley, $22: The Lawrence family has been working its land on Washington’s Royal Slope for a half-century and now operates a vineyard that is gaining a great reputation with winemakers. It also has its own label, which is based not far away in Ellensburg. This luscious Pinot Gris is a perfect seafood wine, offering aromas and flavors of white peach, jasmine blossoms, watermelon and crisp apple. (268 cases, 14.3% alc.)
Emerson Vineyards 2013 Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, $20: The Johns family runs this small operation in the central Willamette Valley town of Monmouth. Their beautiful Pinot Gris shows off aromas and flavors of crisp apple, rich pear, sweet spices and crisp, bright and perfectly balanced acidity. (150 cases, 12.8% alc.)
Best Buy!
Walnut City Wine Works 2013 Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, $15: Based in McMinnville, Ore., Walnut City crafts delicious and affordable Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. This is classic Oregon Pinot Gris with aromas of crisp apple, lavender and minerality, followed by flavors of lemon, lime and apple. (1,150 cases, 12.3% alc.)
ArborBrook Vineyards 2013 Guadalupe Vineyard Pinot Gris, Dundee Hills, $25: Guadalupe was planted in the late 1980s and is a favorite vineyard that sits at the crossroads between the Dundee Hills and Yamhill-Carlton in the northern Willamette Valley. This Pinot Gris reveals aromas and flavors of jasmine, white tea, melon and sweet herbs, all backed with refreshing acidity. (325 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Locati Cellars 2013 Pinot Grigio, Walla Walla Valley, $18: This Walla Walla Valley winery has produced a tasty Pinot Gris with aromas of apple and white peach, followed by austere flavors of white tea and minerality, all backed with bright acidity. (70 cases, 13.1% alc.)
RECOMMENDED
Montinore Estate 2013 Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, $16: This longtime winery near Forest Grove, Ore., has crafted a luscious Pinot Noir with aromas and flavors of papaya, peach, mango and pineapple, all backed with bright, citrusy acidity. (6,200 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Best Buy!
Naches Heights Vineyard 2012 Pinot Gris, Naches Heights, $14: Phil Cline grows grapes in one of the smallest and coolest AVAs in Washington, a region near the city of Yakima. This exudes aromas and flavors of orange, lime zest, apple and Asian pear, along with a touch of mint. (550 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Apolloni Vineyards 2012 Pinot Gris L Cuvee, Willamette Valley, $19: This is a bigger style of Pinot Gris that was aged sur lie for six months. This gives it rich flavors of butter, baked apple and poached pear, all backed with solid acidity. (157 cases, 13.6% alc.)
Castillo de Feliciana Vineyard and Winery 2013 Vino Verano Pinot Gris, Columbia Valley, $16: Walla Walla Valley winemaker Christopher Castillo used grapes from Airport Ranch in the Yakima Valley for this pretty Pinot Gris that offers aromas and flavors of white flowers, peach and apple. (390 cases, 13.9% alc.)
Michael Florentino Cellars 2013 Pinot Grigio, Snipes Mountain, $16: This Woodinville winery uses grapes from Snipes Mountain, an upthrust in the middle of the Yakima Valley. The resulting wine shows off aromas and flavors of minerality, jasmine and green tea, all backed with bracing acidity. (90 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Wind Rose Cellars 2012 Lavender Fields Forever Pinot Grigio, Yakima Valley, $20: Lee Oskar of the ‘70s rock-funk band War painted the label for this tasty Pinot Gris that features aromas and flavors of baked apple, ripe pear and a rich mouth feel. Oskar spends a fair bit of time at this Olympic Peninsula winery. (50 cases, 13.2% alc.)
ArborBrook Vineyards 2013 Croft Vineyard Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, $20: Based in the Chehalem Mountains near the Willamette Valley town of Newberg, ArborBrook produces small lots of high-quality wines. This offers aromas and flavors of green apple, Asian pear, fresh-cut herbs and minerality. (425 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Best Buy!
Nine Hats 2013 Pinot Gris, Columbia Valley, $12: Nine Hats is a label for Long Shadows Vintners in Walla Walla, Wash. Pinot Gris provides enchanting aromas and flavors of crisp apple, pear and lavender, backed by mouthwatering acidity. (2,100 cases, 14.1% alc.)
Torii Mor Winery 2012 Olson Estate Vineyard Pinot Gris, Dundee Hills, $24: Torii Mor is high in the Dundee Hills of Oregon, and winemaker Jacques Tardy has produced a delicious wine with gorgeous jasmine, pink lavender, ripe pear and fresh apple aromas and flavors. (50 cases, 14.5% alc.)
Aubichon Cellars 2012 Vista Hills Pinot Gris, Dundee Hills, $28: This Pinot Gris received oak treatment, but that doesn’t get in the way of the rich fruit flavors, including melon, apple, lime zest and green tea. It’s a complex wine with good length and brightness. (114 cases, 14.4% alc.)
Best Buy!
Gard Vintners 2012 Lawrence Vineyards Pinot Gris, Columbia Valley, $14: Using estate grapes from Washington’s Royal Slope, winemaker Aryn Morell has put together a refreshing white with aromas and flavors of crushed sweet herbs, white flowers and delicious white peach. (275 cases, 14.2% alc.)
Martinez & Martinez 2013 Tudor Hills Vineyard Pinot Grigio, Yakima Valley, $16: This Prosser, Wash., winery brought in grapes from the nearby town of Grandview for this tasty Pinot Gris that offers aromas and flavors of pear, clove, pineapple and apple, all backed with bright acidity. (350 cases, 12.2% alc.)
Best Buy!
San Juan Vineyards 2013 Pinot Gris, Yakima Valley, $14: Winemaker Chris Primus used grapes from Crawford Vineyard near Prosser for this gorgeous white wine that shows off aromas and flavors of honeydew melon and crisp melon, all backed with mouthwatering acidity. (214 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Best Buy!
J. Albin Winery 2012 Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, $15: This Hillsboro, Ore,., winery has crafted a luscious Pinot Gris with aromas and flavors of white pepper, crushed herb, fresh-cut apple and minerality. It’s all backed with crisp acidity. (400 cases, 12.5% alc.)
Vin du Lac 2011 Lehm Pinot Gris, Lake Chelan, $22: Based on the north shore of Lake Chelan, Vin du Lac is one of the oldest producers in the region. This uses estate fruit and offers aromas and flavors of green tea, jasmine and lemon zest, all backed with bright acidity. (306 cases, 13.6% alc.)
Vin du Lac 2011 Grisant! Pinot Gris, Columbia Valley, $19: This tasty Pinot Gris offers aromas of minerality, mint and green tea, followed by luscious flavors of apple and Asian pear. (1,640 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Best Buy!
Claar Cellars 2012 White Bluffs Pinot Grigio, Columbia Valley, $15: This longtime Columbia Basin winery has vineyards overlooking the Columbia River. Their Pinot Gris offers aromas and flavors of tangerine, ripe apple, mango and sweet herbs that give way to a memorable finish. (273 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Locati Cellars 2013 Pinot Grigio, Wahluke Slope, $16: This is one of two Pinot Gris produced by this Walla Walla Valley winery. It shows off austere aromas and flavors of apple juice and lemon, followed by ample acidity. (203 cases, 11.4% alc.)
-- Andy Perdue is the editor and publisher of Great Northwest Wine and wine columnist for The Seattle Times. Learn more about wine at www.greatnorthwestwine.com.
This story was originally published May 22, 2014 at 12:00 AM with the headline "Tasting results: Pinot Gris."