Northwest Ports

By any name, Port-style wines are fascinating. And in the Pacific Northwest, more and more wineries are making these rich, age-worthy, high-alcohol, sweet wines.

In November, Wine Press Northwest gathered a remarkable 64 of these wines that often are associated with sipping in front of a cheery fireplace on a wintery night. It was undoubtedly the largest gathering ever of Northwest Port-style wines.

Society has come a long way since the days that men would gather after dinner for Ports and cigars, leaving women to clean up. Port is enjoyed by both sexes these days, and you don't need to light up a cigar to do so.

Port-style wines comes in all sizes from a multitude of grapes or flavors and often are fortified by neutral spirits, primarily brandy. The common denominator in Port-style wines is the kick that can sneak up on you. Spirits are added to stop a wine from fermenting, resulting in a wine that often is 18 to 22 percent alcohol as well as rich in residual sugar.

Consequently, Port-style wines are neither subtle nor timid. Some can be over the top with alcoholic heat and bite. However, the good ones have balance between the wonderful inviting flavors of berries, cherries, plums, nuts, chocolate, coffee and raisins. When the blend of high alcohol and fruit is balanced, a Port-style wine is akin to an elixir.

Another attractive thing about Port-style wines is they can be infused with other flavors, such as chocolate, coffee, raspberries, vanilla and nuts.

In the United States, there is a problem calling these wines "Ports" because it is a geographical name (rather than reference to the left side of a ship). An agreement signed in March 2006 between the U.S. and the European Union restricts the use of the "Port" term for any U.S. wine imported to Europe. However, American wineries using "Port" on a label prior to that time can continue to do so.

Many wineries making "Ports" after March 2006 have come up with novel or clever names. Others simply term it a red or white dessert wine.

Regardless of their names, the Pacific Northwest presents a treasure trove for Port-style lovers.

These red and white Port-styles are made from a variety of grapes, including several Portugese types such as Touriga Nacional, Tinto Cao and Souzao. However, the most popular in our judging seemed to be Syrah.

The Douro Valley of Portugal, where Port wine is produced, was defined and established as an appellation in 1756 - making it the third-oldest official wine region in the world, after Tokay and Chianti.

Red Port can be drunk alone and generally as an after-dinner wine, though it does have food applications. Try it with cheeses such as sharp cheddar, Parmigianino, Roquefort and Stilton. Pair with almonds, hazelnuts, pecans, walnuts, dates, chocolate and caramel desserts, coffee cake, pecan pie and chocolate chip cookies.

White ports can match well with pate or a creme brulee.

Regular retail outlets usually have a very limited selection of Pacific Northwest Port-styles.

The best bet is to buy directly from the winery.

The judging panel consisted of four members of Wine Press Northwest's tasting panel: Paul Sinclair, Dave Seaver, Andy Perdue and Bob Woehler. Hank Sauer facilitated the judging and certified the results. The wines were evaluated and rated under single-blind conditions, meaning they did not know the name of the producers until the judging was completed.

Outstanding

Yellow Hawk Cellar NV Opportunity, Columbia Valley, $26

This Walla Walla Valley winery steps up with a wine that is a blend of Zinfandel (50%), Barbera (25%) and Tempranillo (25%) from Gunkel Vineyard in the lower Columbia Gorge. It is lush and inviting with aromas of dark fruit, spices, golden raisins and chocolate, followd by lush flavors of blackberries and huckleberries. Supple tannins and dark chocolate on the finish add to the pleasure. (71 cases, 19.5% alc.)

Eaton Hill Winery NV Lot 03 Port-Style Cabernet Sauvignon, American, $50

Using grapes from Konnowac Vineyard, this winery in the upper Yakima Valley has enjoyed great success with table wines, and this superb Port solidifies winemaker Edwin Stear's reputation. This is a fun wine that spent 30 months on American oak to gain age and complexity. It is loaded with aromas of raspberries and hazelnuts, followed by flavors of berry jam and underlying chocolate. (80 cases, 19% alc.)

Hinzerling Winery NV Rainy Day Fine Tawny Port, Washington, $40

Mike Wallace moved to the Yakima Valley town of Prosser in the early 1970s and started Hinzerling in 1976, making it one of the oldest in the state. Over the years, Wallace has established himself as Washington's pre-eminent crafter of Port-style wines. Each year, a portion of this wine is bottled and the rest is blended into the next of three tiers. This "solera" style of wine began in 1982, thus this wine represents more than a quarter-century of winemaking. It offers aromas of hazelnuts and plums with flavors of golden raisins, caramel and maple syrup. This is a classic. (50 cases, 18% alc.)

Kestrel Vintners 2007 Signature Edition Syrah Port, Yakima Valley, $50

This is just the second release of this Prosser, Wash., winery's Port. The grapes were harvested in the third week of October, then fermentation was stopped with the addition of brandy. The result is a wine with 13% residual sugar. It is a beautiful wine with aromas of coffee and new leather, followed by flavors of dried Bing cherries and dates. The alcohol is perfectly in check and doesn't get in the way of the ample flavors. (123 cases, 18.2% alc.)

Thurston Wolfe Winery 2005 JTW Port, Washington, $20

Longtime Washington winemaker Wade Wolfe uses classic Portugese grapes Touriga Nacional and Souzao, as well as Petite Sirah and Cabernet Sauvignon from vineyards in the Yakima Valley and Horse Heaven Hills. It reveals aromas of black cherries, black pepper and caramel, followed by rich, juicy flavors of plums, cherries and chocolate. It should pair beautifully with dark chocolate or blue cheeses. (140 cases 19% alc.)

Badger Mountain Vineyards NV NSA Cabernet Franc Port, Columbia Valley, $17

Winemaker Greg Powers produces this Port from estate certified organic grapes, and the wine is made with no sulfites added (NSA). Thus, for those sensitive to sulfites, this is a great alternative. This reveals aromas and flavors of Bing cherries, dark chocolate, caramel and raisins. This is a perfect wine for sipping while watching a winter storm on the Washington or Oregon coast. (472 cases, 18% alc.)

Maison de Padgett Winery NV McHargue True Friendship Malbec Port, Rattlesnake Hills, $25

David Padgett founded this Zillah, Wash., winery in 2003 and also owns Horizon's Edge Winery. Padgett has a passion for fortified wines, as well as zany names and labels. This was the only Malbec Port we tasted, and it is a stunner, thanks to captivating aromas of raspberries and flavors of rich, jammy fruit, dark chocolate and sensual spices. Perfect to sip or pour over vanilla ice cream. (210 cases, 19.5% alc.)

Horizon Edge Winery 2005 Intimate Affair Reserve Port, Rattlesnake Hills, $25

Owner/winemaker David Padgett crafted this wine from Cabernet Sauvignon. Imagine liquid Almond Roca and you will begin to realize the depth and hedonism of this wine. It reveals aromas of chocolate, coffee, vanilla and peaches, follwed by flavors of cherries jubilee and a cherry cordial. (110 cases 19.2% alc.)

Troon Vineyard 2007 Insomnia Port, Applegate Valley, $23

We guarantee that if you drink enough of this before bedtime, you won't have any trouble sleeping. This Port from Southern Oregon is made with Tempranillo, and it's a beauty. It reveals aromas and flavors of golden raisins, sweet mocha, molasses and rich dark fruit. This should age beautifully for 20 years or more, but if you don't want to lose sleep over waiting to drink it, pop the cork and enjoy with chocolates or Stilton. (379 cases, 19% alc.)

Excellent

Maison de Padgett Winery NV Smoking Gun Coffee Port, Yakima Valley, $19

This is one of the most unusual wines in the Northwest, a fortified wine that is made from coffee. It is a stunning wine with luscious aromas of pralines and coffee and flavors of Kona coffee, maple syrup and caramel. A great after-dinner treat. (210 cases, 19.2% alc.)

Troon Vineyards 2005 Insomnia Reserve Port, Applegate Valley, $23

This wine from Southern Oregon is made from Tempranillo and Dolcetto. It reveals huge chocolate aromas and flavors, as well as richly structured fruit. (135 cases, 19%)

Barnard Griffin 2008 Syrah Port, Columbia Valley, $17

Winemaker Rob Griffin has been crafting a Port from Syrah for several years, and it is a real favorite among Northwest Port drinkers. This reveals aromas of black cherries and black pepper, followed by mouth-coating flavors of blackberry jam. (1,200 cases, 18% alc.)

Wind River Cellars 2007 Harriet's Port, Columbia Gorge, $25

This winery near Bingen, Wash., has crafted this white Port from Riesling grapes off Silvertooth Vineyard. It provides aromas of oranges and pineapples along with flavors of nectarines and tropical fruits. (200 cases, 21% alc.)

Bitner Vineyards 2006 Sevana, Snake River Valley, $25

This Port-style wine uses Syrah grapes from southern Idaho's Snake River Valley. It provides aromas of coffee, caramel and oak, followed by rich flavors of chocolate and thick, ripe boysenberries. (50 cases, 19% alc.)

Thurston Wolfe Winery 2007 JTW Port, Washington, $20

This wine is made with four different grapes from the Yakima Valley and Horse Heaven Hills. It reveals aromas of vanilla and coffee, followed by flavors of chocolate and blackberries. (217 cases 19% alc.)

Hinzerling Winery NV Three Muses Ruby Port, Washington, $23

This longtime popular fortified wine from Mike Wallace in Prosser, Wash., is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. It reminds us of classic Portugese styles with its aromas of cherries and hazelnuts and flavors of rich berries and chocolate. (400 cases, 18.8% alc.)

Thurston Wolfe Winery 2007 Zinfandel Port, Columbia Valley, $15

This wine uses Zin from the warm Wahluke Slope blended with tiny amounts of Touriga Nacional, Souzao, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah. It has a big, rich entry with notes of Baker's chocolate, marionberries and toasted nuts, all backed with sturdy tannins. This should only get better. (110 cases 19% alc.)

Gilstrap Brothers Winery NV 45 Passion Syrah dessert wine, Columbia Valley, $18

It's rare enough to find a winery in Eastern Oregon and rarer still that it is near LaGrande. This Syrah comes from Columbia Valley grapes and reveals aromas of plums and flavors of blackberries and butterscotch. (19.2% alc.)

Willow Crest Winery NV Syrah Port, Yakima Valley, $18

Dave Minnick has been growing grapes and making wine in the Yakima Valley for many years and opened a new tasting room a few years ago in the Vintners Village in Prosser. This Port provides aromas of leather and dark chocolate and flavors of smooth Bing cherries. (172 cases, 18% alc.)

Claar Cellars NV Fouled Anchor Port, Columbia Valley, $30

This "solera" style of Port is made of blends from the 2002 through 2006 vintages and includes Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. It is loaded with aromas of Bing cherries, herbs and spices and flavors that remind us of chocolate-covered cherries. (121 cases, 18% alc.)

Tefft Cellars NV Cabernet Sauvignon Port, Yakima Valley, $16

This longtime Yakima Valley producer is under new ownership but continues its tradition of crafting delicious dessert wines. This is laden with aromas and flavors of blackberries, raspberries, cranberries and mocha. (80 cases, 18% alc.)

Maison de Padgett NV Pillow Talk Vanilla Port, Rattlesnake Hills, $25

This winery near Zillah has crafted a dessert wine made from vanilla bean, and it reminds us of an old-time cream soda. It's good in the glass and could be even better served over ice cream or pound cake. (46 cases, 19.5% alc.)

Westport Winery NV Shelter From the Storm, Washington, $22

This might take our award for "best name for a Port that avoids that term." It's a deliciously sweet and thick wine with aromas and flavors of cranberries, blueberries and blackberries. (220 cases, 18% alc.)

Paradisos del Sol 2004 Angelica G, Yakima Valley, $25

Longtime Washington winemaker Paul Vandenberg launched his winery several years ago near the Yakima Valley town of Sunnyside, where he crafts distinctive wines. This white Port is made from Gewurztraminer and Riesling and shows off aromas of apple pie and flavors of white chocolate, raisins and nectarines. (143 cases 19% alc.)

Eaton Hill Winery NV Lot 99 Cabernet Sauvignon Port, American, $40

This Cab-based Port was aged 17 months in American oak. It shows off aromas of sweet herbs and ripe plums followed by rich, elegant flavors of chocolate and ripe dark fruit. (51 cases, 19%)

Abacela Vineyard & Winery 2006 Port, Southern Oregon, $25

Count on owner Earl Jones to use five classic Portugese varieties for this wine. It is seductive on the nose with aromas of Baker's chocolate and ripe cherries, followed by balanced flavors of plums and raisins. The winemaker suggests pairing this with baklava. (211 cases 19% alc.)

Tefft Cellars 2005 Zinfandel Port, Columbia Valley, $18

This winery near tiny Outlook, Wash., has been crafting fortified wines for years, and this one from Zinfandel grapes is delicious. It provides intriguing aromas and flavors of brown sugar, cherries and raspberries and is beautifully balanced. (18 cases, 18% alc.)

Tagaris Winery Walker 2005 Syrah Port, Wahluke Slope, $26

Winemaker Frank Roth moved next door to this winery after learning his craft from Rob Griffin of Barnard Griffin. This Port made with Syrah grapes shows off aromas and flavors of cola, dark cherries, brown sugar and milk chocolate. (210 cases, 19% alc.)

Hinzerling Winery NV Angelica, Yakima Valley, $26

Winemaker Mike Wallace has crafted this Gewurztraminer-based fortified wine for many, many years, and it's a favorite with Hinzerling regulars. It opens with aromas of almonds and citrus, followed by flavors of apples and pumpkin pie. (200 cases 18% alc.)

Preston Premium Wines 1999 Tenrebac Port, Columbia Valley, $39

This longtime winery north of Pasco, Wash., got clever with this Port, spelling "Cabernet" backward. It's a luscious red with aromas and flavors of molasses, chocolate and red plums. (222 cases, 19% alc.)

Maison de Padgett NV Pleasure Point, Rattlesnake Hills, $25

Imagine fresh peaches with tangerines in syrup, and you begin to get the picture for this delicious peach-based dessert wine. (110 cases, 19.5% alc.)

Recommended

Maryhill Winery 2006 Port, Columbia Valley, $28

Maryhill's first port uses Touriga Nacional, Tina Cao and Souzao. It's a delicious inaugural wine with aromas of oak, tar, chocolate and boysenberries. (425 cases, 19.2% alc.)

M.W. Whidbeys 2007 Port, Columbia Valley, $13

Ste. Michelle Wine Estates has been making this Port since 1984 and now it is produced by Snoqualmie winemaker Joy Andersen. This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (78%) and Syrah and provides aromas and flavors of cherries, plums and maple syrup. (3,500 cases, 19.1% alc.)

Van Duzer Vineyards NV Windfall Port, Oregon, $30

This longtime winemaker near Dallas, Ore., has crafted luscious Pinot Noirs for years, and this Pinot Noir-based Port is superb. It offers aromas and flavors of coffee, dark plums and hints of herbs. (35 cases, $18.6% alc.)

Whitman Cellars 2003 Port, Red Mountain, $40

Winemaker Steve Lessard started his Washington winemaking career on Red Mountain and returned to these roots to produce this Port for his Walla Walla Valley winery. It's made with Cabernet Sauvignon and provides aromas and flavors of rich dark fruit and milk chocolate. (32 cases, 19.5% alc.)

Blackwood Canyon Vintners 2005 Fort Syrah Port, Red Mountain, $25

Longtime Red Mountain winemaker Mike Moore has crafted this fortified wine from estate Syrah grapes. It is loaded with aromas and flavors of chocolate-covered raisins, blackberries and a hint of orange oil. (350 cases, 20% alc.)

Tefft Cellars NV Concordia, Washington, $27

It's rare to find a wine made with Concord grapes, but Tefft has made it with great success for years. It smells and tastes like the grape that makes Welch's famous with juicy flavors and a nice kick. (70 cases, 18% alc.)

Tagaris Winery 2006 Kennedy White Port, Columbia Valley, $40

This blend of Gewurztraminer and Riesling shows off aromas of honey candy with apricot and peach pie flavors. (180 cases, 19% alc.)

Wind River Cellars 2006 Port of Celilo, Washington, $25

Winemaker Joel Goodwillie has crafted this Lemberger-based Port for many years. This version reveals aromas of new leather, blueberries and sweet, luscious spices. (200 cases, 20.5% alc.)

Hinzerling Winery 2003 Wallace Vintage Port, Washington, $38

Mike Wallace's most serious and age-worthy Port is made with Cabernet Sauvignon and is only now beginning to reveal its greatness. It opens with aromas of cranberries and apple spices followed by flavors of ripe plums and chocolate-covered raisins. (160 cases, 18.5% alc.)

Zerba Cellars 2006 Syrah Port, Walla Walla Valley, $30

This winery just over the state line in Milton-Freewater, Ore., produced this dessert Syrah from Walla Walla Valley grapes. It reveals aromas and flavors of sweet spices and juicy cherries. (296 cases, 19% alc.)

Tagaris Winery 2007 Kennedy White Port, Columbia Valley, $40

This Richland, Wash., winery has blended Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling to craft a white Port with aromas and flavors of apricots and lemons with a smooth, sweet finish. (180 cases, 19% alc.)

Blasted Church Vineyards 2005 Amen Port-de-Merlot, Okanagan Valley, $65 CDN

This winery near Okanagan Falls, B.C., takes its name from a church that was blasted off its foundation before being moved to town. This is aptly named because it should be the end of a good meal. It unveils aromas and flavors of cocoa, vanilla and plums with notes of dark berry compote. Hallelujah. (47 cases, 19.2% alc.)

Horizon Edge Winery NV Wishful Thinking, Yakima Valley, $19

This chocolate dessert wine might cause some wishful thinking indeed, as it reveals sensual aromas and flavors of dark chocolate and ripe plums. (210 cases, 19.5% alc.)

Whitman Cellars 2007 Syrah Port, Walla Walla Valley, $40

This Walla Walla, Wash., winery's latest port uses valley grapes and provides aromas and flavors of freshly ground coffee with concentrated notes of chocolate and berries. (28 cases, 19.5% alc.)

Tagaris Winery Walker 2001 Port, Washington, $26

This blend of Lemberger and Cabernet Franc is a tasty dessert wine that offers aromas and flavors of dark cherries, smooth berries and underlying chocolate. (210 cases, 18% alc.)

Preston Premium Wines 1999 Royal Port, Columbia Valley, $39

This wine is made with the rare Royalty grape, which typically is used for blending because of its dark color. This shows off aromas and flavors of chocolate and sweet prunes. (93 cases, 19.5% alc.)

Knipprath Cellars 2007 Syrah Ruby Port, Columbia Valley, $13

Longtime Spokane winemaker Henning Knipprath makes a large number of Port-style wines. This reveals aromas and flavors of caramel, chocolate and rich cherries. (400 cases, 20 alc.%)

Bob Woehler is Wine Press Northwest's tasting editor. He has been writing about wines of the Pacific Northwest since 1976.

This story was originally published December 4, 2009 at 4:21 PM with the headline "Northwest Ports."