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Wednesday, May. 13, 2009

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Woehler on Wine: K Vintners

By Bob Woehler, Wine Press Northwest tasting editor

K Vintners of Walla Walla has made quite a splash at its modest, down-home winery along scenic Mill Creek Road.

Not only does owner Charles Smith make some excellent wines, but he also does it with a certain amount of panache.

His labels are in large, simple black and white type with lot of whimsy front and back. Who else would label a riesling "Kung Fu Girl" or a merlot "The Velvet Devil?"

But there is nothing whimsical about the wines, which are balanced and tasty. And seven of his wines are in the $12 to $20 range.

Smith and assistant Andrew Latta also make some upper-end wines under the Charles Smith label, including a 2006 Syrah called "Royal City" for $80 that has gained wide acclaim from wine media across the country.

We'll concentrate here on wines that are a bit easier on the pocketbook.

Surprisingly, Smith is one of the largest producing wineries in the Walla Walla area, with 6,000 cases for K Vintners, 70,000 cases for the Charles Smith label and 150,000 cases from the famous Steak House and Fish House labels under Magnificent Wine Co.

Magnificent is in partnership with Precept brands, which is building the new Waterbrook Wine Works on Highway 12 leading to Walla Walla.

Many of the K Vintners and Charles Smith wines are made at the Milbrandt brothers facility near Mattawa.

Charles Smith 2008 "Kung Fu Girl," Riesling, Columbia Valley, $12 -- Very Germanic with white peach and layered easy drinking components. Great with a bratwurst.

Charles Smith 2007 "Eve" Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, $12 -- Banana, pineapple, a bit of oak and some nice richness. Try with shrimp salad with a thin buttermilk dressing.

K Vintners 2008 K Viognier, Columbia Valley, $18-$20 -- Clean, crisp orange flavors with a hint of jasmine. Would go well with grilled chicken with spice and orange essences.

Charles Smith 2007 "The Velvet Devil" Merlot, Columbia Valley, $12 -- Smooth bittersweet chocolate, blueberries and dark toasty oak. Pair with a quality meat loaf.

Charles Smith 2007 "Boom Boom" Syrah, Columbia Valley, $15 -- Blackberries, black pepper and some earthiness highlight this big red. Would be great with a pepper steak.

Charles Smith 2006 "Chateau Smith" Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $18-$20 -- Tobacco, currants and good acidity. This is a wine to serve with beef shish kabobs.

-- On the net: www.kvintners.com

*Bob Woehler has been writing about Pacific Northwest wines since 1978. E-mail him at bwoehler@charter.net or check out his past columns at www.winepressnw.com.



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