Cross-country skiing across the Northwest

Posted: 12:00am on Dec 8, 2011; Modified: 3:48pm on Dec 8, 2011

SEATTLE -- When winter slithers into Seattle, bringing dank darkness, it's easy to hide in the house and yearn for spring.

Don't.

Instead, head for the snow and go cross-country skiing.

Within at most a day from anywhere in Washington state are world-class areas for nordic skiing that also offer close-to or on-the-trails lodging.

Compared with downhill skiing, which can shred knees and wallets, a cross-country getaway is a budget-friendly and healthful way to go.

Here's a look at some destinations in Washington and British Columbia for a skinny-skis weekend.

Lake Wenatchee State Park (Leavenworth)

* The place: For a smaller-scale, closest-to-home getaway, drive over the Cascades and through the woods to central Washington's Lake Wenatchee State Park near Leavenworth.

* What's there: Swarming with campers and swimmers in summer, the park's lakeside trails turn into about 11 miles (about 18 kilometers) of winding cross-country ski trails in winter, part of the state's Sno-Park program for winter recreation. It's a family-friendly place of narrow, gentle trails, groomed mostly for classic skiing. For more snowplay there's a popular sledding hill and snowshoe routes.

For more challenging terrain, ski on over to the adjoining Nason Ridge with 15.5 miles (25 kilometers) of trails on rolling (and sometimes steep) hills and a ridgetop with big views of mountains and the lake. It's also groomed through the Sno-Park program for both classic and skate skiing (there's also a new snowshoe route).

* Where to stay: For ski-out-the-door convenience, stay at Kahler Glen Golf and Ski Resort adjoining the park. Condos and town houses are spacious and comfortable, and a ski trail (across what's a golf course in summer) links to the Lake Wenatchee and Nason Ridge trails. Rates start at about $145 a night for a two-bedroom condo with a fully-outfitted kitchen. Go to www.kahlerglen.com (and check for third-night and fourth-night-free special offers).

Individual owners also rent out Kahler Glen condos and vacation cabins around Lake Wenatchee at websites such as Vacation Rentals by Owner, www.vrbo.com.

Methow Valley

* The place: For extensive and top-notch trails -- one of the biggest Nordic trail systems in the U.S. -- head to the Methow Valley in north-central Washington. You could ski for days through the peaceful, bucolic valley on the interconnected system of 124 miles (200 kilometers) of meticulously groomed Nordic trails.

* What's there: The trails wind through the long, narrow valley among farms and cabins, along a tumbling river, and up and down forested ridges.

There's a trail for everyone. Preschoolers to grandfathers glide along miles of gentle, flat trails. Lycra-clad speedsters embrace the challenging climbs and broad skating lanes. There's even a stretch where dogs can bound along with their skiing owners.

* Where to stay: Accommodations are scattered through the valley, from cabins and luxurious rural lodges to down-home motels in the little Western-style town of Winthrop.

Get more lodging and visitor info at www.winthropwashington.com.

* More info, fees: For trail maps and more, see the website of the Methow Valley Sport Trails Association, www.mvsta.com, a nonprofit group that wove the network of trails on private and public land. A one-day pass is $20 for an adult, with discounts for multiday passes and youths and seniors.

* P.S. For a Nordic overnight adventure, ski from hut to hut along groomed trails at the Methow's Rendezvous Huts. Bring your sleeping bag and food for stays in the bare-bones but cozy ski-in cabins. www.rendezvoushuts.com/

White Pass

* The place: For friends or families who want an easygoing weekend of cross-country and downhill skiing, White Pass in Washington's South Cascades is the ticket.

* What's there: The White Pass Nordic Center, nestled in the woods by the White Pass downhill ski area, isn't big and it isn't fancy. Buy a cross-country ticket at a yurt. Lace up your boots at an outdoor picnic table. Cover the 11 miles (18 kilometers) of trails, groomed for classic and skate skiing, easily in a day as they circle the small Leech Lake (far prettier than it sounds) and meander among the firs.

* Where to stay: The Village Inn is the only place to stay at White Pass (development is limited since it's national-forest land). The cross-country trails and downhill area are each just a two-minute walk from the Village Inn.

A standard studio begins at $140 a night; a deluxe one-bedroom that can sleep four to six is $225 a night. Add a Thursday or Sunday night to a weekend booking and get the third night at 50 percent off; also check for midweek specials: www.whitepassvillageinn.com

* More info, fees: The Nordic Center is open Thursday-Sunday as well as holiday periods; the trail fee is $14. Go to www.skiwhitepass.com.

Whistler Olympic Park

* The place: Whistler is best-known as the mega-downhill area in southwest British Columbia. But 14 miles south of the ski resort you'll find days' worth of groomed cross-country trails winding through a wilderness valley ringed by snow-draped peaks.

* What's there: Whistler Olympic Park was developed for the 2010 Winter Olympics for nordic skiing, ski-jumping and more.

Recreational skiers can follow in the tracks of Olympic greats on about 35 miles (56 kilometers) of trails, groomed for classic (skiing in parallel tracks) and skate skiing (gliding in a V-shape).

Beginners will be happy on flat trails in meadows; more advanced skiers can surge up and down steep, thickly wooded hills.

Weekends are getting busier as skiers embrace the new area, but on a weekday last spring with perfect snow and bright sun there were only a few skiers, counting their blessings.

* Where to stay: There's no lodging within Whistler Olympic Park, but Whistler Village has dozens of hotels and condos with rates from around $145 a night or double or triple that for luxury lodging. See www.whistlerblack comb. com or www.tourism whistler. com.

On a budget? Hostelling International's Whistler hostel charges about $35 per person for a shared room.

* More info, fees: A Whistler Olympic Park day pass is about $22 with discounts for youths and families. www.whistlerolympicpark.com.

* P.S. Next to Whistler Village is Lost Lake Park with almost 20 miles (32 kilometers) of cross-country trails.

Ski for an hour or all day, although early-season snow often isn't great since the village is about 2,200 feet elevation (vs. about 2,700 feet and up at Whistler Olympic Park). ww.whistler.com/nordic/ lost_lake.

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