LEAVENWORTH -- Snow-speckled granite peaks towered from the crystal-clear lake straight into the blue sky. Surrounded by otherworldly craggy spires, I was all alone save for a backpacker I encountered at the southern edge of pristine Lake Stuart.

"It's amazing how few people will ever see this," she remarked.

The Alpine Lakes Wilderness, just 10 miles from the quaint, Bavarian-themed town of Leavenworth, should never be confused with the Cascade Lakes Highway or the Three Sisters Wilderness.

The Cascade Range of Central Washington is decidedly different from the Cascade Range of Central Oregon.

They both have their appealing qualities. While Oregon's mountains are mostly single volcanoes, the Alpine Lakes Wilderness and the area known as the Enchantments is a series of continuous rugged peaks and cliffs, surging waterfalls and picturesque lakes.

The area is so popular with backpackers that overnight permits are required from June 15 to Oct. 15 -- and most hikers must apply for those permits by March.

Lacking the needed permit, and not wanting to entirely abandon my wife and two small children as we vacationed in nearby Leavenworth, I turned my adventure to the Enchantments into two quick day trips. The cost each day was just $5 for parking at the trailhead.

I ran much of these hiking routes, and they became half-day trips. Some backpackers spend four to five days in the Enchantments.

Sure, my experience would be limited, but I would be able to spend some time in what is widely regarded as one of the most spectacular locations in the Cascades.

My first hike was to Stuart Lake, 10 miles round trip with 1,700 feet of elevation gain. The Stuart Lake Trailhead is just 10 miles southwest of Leavenworth off Icicle Road and Forest Road 7601.

The trail started deep in the woods along gurgling Mountaineer Creek. I ran easily for a couple miles before the path turned to rock-strewn switchbacks, not especially steep but challenging nonetheless.

After several miles, I came to a trail junction. A left turn would take me to Colchuck Lake, which leads to Aasgard Pass and the Enchantment Lakes, the area most backpackers seek.

But the trail to Colchuck Lake is a difficult rock scramble, and Aasgard Pass climbs 2,200 feet in less than a mile. With limited time, I had to continue straight along the trail and settle for Lake Stuart.

I broke out of the thick forest and into a green meadow dotted by pink wildflowers, with a stunning backdrop of rocky peaks and ridges, including the 8,453-foot Argonaut Peak.

I continued my run/hike through boulder fields, forests and meadows, reaching Lake Stuart about an hour and 10 minutes after starting.

The lake was encircled by dramatic peaks, including 9,415-foot Mount Stuart, whose icy glacier was reflected in the clear, still water. Lake Stuart sits at just 5,065 feet in elevation, but with the mountain scenery that surrounds the tarn, it feels more like being 10,000 feet high in the Alps. I found a flat rock on which to sit, eat lunch and take in the views.

My round-trip time was about 3.2 hours, and my family hardly knew I was gone.

I planned another hike for a few days later. This time I would make the trip to Eightmile Lake, an easier hike of seven miles and 1,300 feet of elevation gain.

This trail started along a wildflower-specked ridgeline with incrediblemountain vistas before leading into the deep forest and following alongside Eightmile Creek. I was able to run most of the trail.

Eightmile lake was surrounded by more jagged cliffs and ridges. Both Lake Stuart and Eightmile Lake are home to wild cutthroat trout, and I witnessed one hiker/angler hook one where Eightmile Creek flows out of the lake.

After a quick break and some lunch, I made my way back down to the trailhead, needing about 2.2 hours for the round trip.

Alpine Lakes Wilderness

The Alpine Lakes Wilderness spans the Cascade Range of Washington and is located in parts of the Wenatchee National Forest and Snoqualmie National Forest. The area is bounded by Interstate 90 and Snoqualmie Pass to the south and Highway 2 and Stevens Pass to the north.

The Enchantment Lakes are located in the southeast portion of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness.

For more information, go to www.wta.org.